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@sinklink- my advice is to make sure your images are optimized and as Lax has inferred, clean out your storage if you have un-used decorations.

As far as optimizing your images, I'd try to make them the same dimensions as the UV map that is provided with the part. Also, using www.tinypng.com will help with file sizes as well. Here's more:
Step 3: Create your image

As far as cleaning out your storage, you need to delete the texture images whenever you delete a part or if you upload a new image to replace a different one. Here's more on that:

Part Management:

• Managing your textures
• Deleting parts (and textures)

Got it, Thanks!

extremely complicated. don't expect me to make my own stickers any time soon.

@LaxCCStudios

Thank you! Pixlr seems to be working.

Not that Inkscape could still help, I might still use it.

I think it's actually going to happen.

@B1Trash
@LaxCCStudios

I did it!! https://mecabricks.com/en/models/WRaZeBV7vpZ And I thought you might want to see the finished product.

It's a bird! It's a plane! It's... Ralph Hinkley.

Great job Cap! Fantastic!

could you post your custom textures on drop box

What exactly are you looking for. I don't use dropbox. However, I choose to make my models available to open in the editor. Thus, my textures are available as a part of the custom models. You can use the parts within the workshop and save them to your personal library. Then you can import them into your models. Or you can export the models. If you don't want to use Blender, you can export as a Collada or Wavefront file. Both of these will save as a zip file and you can easily navigate to the textures. However, you will only get the color texture and not the data with that method. You would need to use Blender and the zmbx file format to get the data textures. Or are you looking for a raw svg file? If you have something specific in mind, let me know. If there are specific files you need, I'm sure we can work something out.

If I was way off the mark and you meant something different, then please feel free to ask again.

So, official decorations require vectorized images... does anyone know how to upload a vectorized PNG?!
PNG is the only type allowed on for me 😦

No, official decorations do not need vectorized images. Mecabricks requires PNG images, which are pixel-based images. If you have a vector image (SVG), you will need to convert it to PNG. For instance, I personally prefer to work in Inkscape which natively saves SVG (vector) images. When I am ready to upload to Mecabricks, I export to a PNG image, which is what Mecabricks accepts. However you make a PNG image is up to you.

In Pixlr, you should be able to import your image in, and then export the image as a PNG file.

I do what Lax said

como puedo mover la imagen al margen necesitado

como puedo mover la imagen al margen necesitado???

Can I make minidolls?

Not right now... I answered you here:
https://mecabricks.com/en/forum/topic/3139/2#post64835

Hi, I'm not new to Mecabricks and I know how to create customs prints and decorations, However one thing I do struggle with is creating prints that line up with each other, for example a robe like design that stretches over the hips and legs. Do you think you know anything that can help me with that?

Hi NRG... what app are you using to do your decorations? The basics of the answer would be to make yourself a template, and then you'll never have to think about it again. But knowing what you're using will change how I answer the question.

I stole this from another thread here...

For Paint.NET, you need some kind of guide for each part that will help you align the prints. You could supply a checkerboard pattern each for the torso, hips & legs. Something like these: https://www.google.com/search?q=uv+checkerboard. Then upload these to Mecabricks and take a screenshot of an assembled minifig. Now if you use this as an extra guide layer for your part, you can get an idea for where things are going to line up. Also, some UV maps are easier to line up than others. For instance, the hips uv3 & 4 maps are much easier for me to align than uv2 because they're both taken with a front-on view, just like the legs and torso.

I would recommend to switch the view from Perspective to Ortho before you take the screenshot. If you have a keyboard, you can use the shortcut [5] to toggle between Perspective and Ortho... otherwise use the View dropdown on the top toolbar. **Ortho **will straighten things out for the screen shot, and [1] will move the camera to front-on while [3] will give you a side view. If you need more help, I'm happy to provide it.

Thank you dude, ill try those out.
I personally use fire alpaca, but sometimes ibisPaint.x as well. I may try out Paint.Net, is it free?.
I also use uv4 for the hips, but the upside down back part conuses me at times, so i might switch over to uv3.
And that ortho tip was great 👍